The Blade 400 Bible

- Blade 400 Do’s and Don’ts

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=102397

- Learning to fly
http://www.littlerotors.com/flyinglessons/index.aspx

Radd’s flight school of rotary flight (NEWBIES!)

http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html

- Buddy box trainer setup
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=97113

Setting up a CCPM Heli (from RC Heli Magazine)
http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=6
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Stock head and tail photos
http://www.slyster.com/heli/stock.htm

more... http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=99431

HOW TO SOLDER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
and also http://www.swashplate.co.uk/ehbg-v17/ch11s04.html

USE a SIM! Clearview a great sim value for $40
http://rcflightsim.com/

General agreement is that Phoenix sim is the VERY best for helis ($150)

A sim chart is available here:
http://www.emptynestgames.com/rc_sim_chart.html

Excellent general heli setup guide
http://www.digimemphoto.com/guides/backguide.htm

Good swash leveling thread
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=96992

B400 PNP manual. Just in case many of you haven't seen this, I've been looking through the PNP Version of the Blade 400 Manual and found A LOT of useful info there. Proper swash plate heights, link lengths, etc. I wish they would have included this info in the RTF Version as well. Thought some of us newbies would like to see this. "BennyTRD"
http://www.slyster.com/heli/pnpman.pdf

#2- BLADE 400 HELP VIDEOS- really for ANY CP heli.

Finless index! (SEE THIS!)
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692

Note.. there ARE more then listed here... search Youtube
DX6i part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtwrt8FzO0
DX6i part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFK6B9X6ESA
Gyro/Servo setup part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53TeGHTkv2E
Gyro/Servo setup part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyPNzjoO9W0
Head setup 1.. servo/swash http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1JdYzfDxA8
Head setup 2.. washout/flybar/blades http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hS7L-bapzRQ
Head setup 3.. more... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzkwkUnwui0
Head setup 4.. tracking.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LI0Zoi2vFvs
Tail setup.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_G7EpY0Jeo
Feather shaft repair part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWKTWMea1Y8
Feather shaft repair part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Si2JkFPp_oA
Feather shaft repair part 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9A9yN7CbyU
Main shaft repair part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htjmfyNCTvw
Main shaft repair part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVYjWJb3DEw
Main shaft repair part 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmeR5yeUylk
Hover theory http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHE8kvc1LwA
Approaches and deceleration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PX7PMFFhzY
BEC 101 http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=55538

More.. Helimix's B400 repair vids http://youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8C3DF9E66E67BEC1

Mikepmurf's vids
Complete Disassembly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay9LJ3xRQvs

Jasmines awesome really detailed B400 repair vids

"No matter who you are, something will happen eventually and you'll have to rebuild your helicopter - the trick is to make it come out better than it was. Helis need proactive maintenance, so even if you don't crash it, you're going to rebuild occasionally. I had flown this heli in an airshow the day before I bashed it into a fence - it was a totally random event - it can happen to anyone. These are simply skills you have to know."- Jasmine

Servo Gear Replacement
http://www.vimeo.com/1695309

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 1 - Parts
http://www.vimeo.com/1699772

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 2 - Destruction
http://www.vimeo.com/1701565

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 3 - Servos
http://www.vimeo.com/1712126

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 4 - The Tail
http://www.vimeo.com/1720400

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 5 - Gears, shaft, swash
http://www.vimeo.com/1737223

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 6 - Washout and Flybar
http://www.vimeo.com/1775734

Blade 400 Rebuild - Part 7 - Blade Balancing
http://www.vimeo.com/1815691

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Head link measurements http://www.slyster.com/heli/b400links.jpg
(NAVY_Blade401 on RCgroups)

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MANY MORE... FINLESS BOB vids... he uses T-rex but good for B400. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692

FYI on Loctite- "Use blue for setscrews in pinions that use them. Use green for pinions without setscrews that don't press on. Don't use any for brass, fluted press ons- fluted as in, if you look at the inside of a brand new one, you can see ripples on the inside of the hole. Those stretch and mate with the shaft when you press them on; that's why you don't reuse them."- Osterizer

#3- Lubrication

Tips on lubing motor
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=900875

EASY way to lube the motor...
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=97726

General lubrication suggestions...
- Silicon spray for the belt.
- TriFlow oil for shafts/bushings.
- White lithium grease for servos.
- General grease for bearings.

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Sly uses mostly silicone spray for nearly everything (links, belt, head, main gears)... because it dries and will NOT attract stickies such as grass and dirt! But still use light oil and grease where applicable... grease for bearings and thrust bearings in the head and machine oil on shaft where the head slides on.
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Sokal- get some mothers wax (for cars) put on the main shaft with swash and head removed power up the heli at 25% stick and polish the shaft can do the same with tail works very very well. and lasts a bit longer than a liquid

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Where to use loctite?

I use blue thread locker on all true metal-to-metal fastener connections. You are right, that rules out bolts with lock nuts.

- feathering shaft bolts
- set screw in main shaft collar, and in tail hub
- ball link bolt and nut on rudder servo horn
- I guess the motor mount screws (never took them out yet)
- potentially any servo spline screws that go into metal splines
- tail rotor blade mount screws
- set screw in flybar paddle mount/adapter
- mount screws into flybar paddle control frame rods
- motor pinion set screw
- swash control linkage balls

Tx Tail Boom on Helifreaks.

#4- Batteries

What is C rating?
Remember that C-rating is only part of the equation. It is the fraction of an hour in which the battery can be safely discharged. So a 15C battery can be discharged in 1/15 of an hour or 4 minutes. This particular 15C pack is 2400 mAh, so you can pull 2400 mah out of it in 4 minutes, which is an average of 36 amps (same as a 20C 1800 mah pack). That's a lot more amps than most people are pulling and it explains why these things aren't puffing when used with the stock motor or something similar. I think somebody puffed one with a 2221-8 though. (Fishboy77)

The Dean connectors are easy to solder. They have soldering tabs on the wire side. Just slip loose shrink tubing on each wire then solder. Then heat shrink the tubing. Remember to use the female plug on the battery and the male ones on the esc.
Soldering deans video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CT18mxfGRjo
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KEEP YOUR LIPOS ALIVE!
- Long term storage (fridge a bonus) at about 3.8V/cell. 3.8*3 = 11.4V 3s (7.6V for 2s)
- Allow the battery to go less than 3V per cell will kill it! (9V for 3s and 6V for 2s)
- Fully charge to 4.2V per cell. 3*4.2 = 12.6V for 3s (8.4V for 2s)
- Lipos should be stored FULLY charged for only 5 days or less.
--------------------------------
Cheap 12V power supply http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26oqItOY3lE
... Sly says "otherwise eBay has other options.. I am using a $20 one that is meant to power portable DVD players for cars.. it is 12V/6A.. plenty of power. I just cut the end off."
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- LVC is there for a reason.. but not recommended you let lipo reach it... (if you do.. you have reach a load voltage of 9V.. that is too low and WILL damage the battery) - Gunny
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Science lesson from Skunky!... Max amp discharge rates:
"I will use the 1800mAh as an example. Take the C rating times the amp hours to get the constant discharge rate the batt can handle. So you have a 20C 1800mAh batt. 20 * 1.8 = 36. You can discharge at 36A continuously safely with this battery. 15C in a 2400 = 36A as well. The C rating of a batt is the constant discharge rating."
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#5- B400 PARTS to have on hand.

CHEAP Lipos and CF blades

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=105383

The items in bold are the parts that almost always get damaged...
Main Blades EFLH1415A
Blade Grips EFLH1417
Spindle/feathering shaft EFLH1421
main shaft EFLH1447
Servo gear set EFLRDS751
O-ring EFLH1158
Tail Blades EFLH1471
Landing skid EFLH1446B
Landing strut EFLH1445W
Main gear w/one way bearing EFLH1452 (too hard to replace bearing...)
Flybar EFLH1425
Flybar paddle EFLH1428
Flybar seesaw holder set EFLH1423
Tail Boom EFLH1457

#6- MAIN SHAFT and GEAR (and one way bearing)
Great $4.00 bearing puller
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=62_446&products_id=408

One Way bearing
Pounding in the one way bearing your self? It is EZ to put in (but impossible to take out) but be SURE you put it in right... othewise it is backwards and you are screwed like I was... and here's a tip... The arrow is on the bottom of bearing and goes into the main gear with the arrow facing toward the bottom also. (thanks Helidude2)
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=822975
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Replacement.
Both main gear and tail gears can just slide out left or right when shaft is out. You can replace the main shaft without tearing down the whole heli. Start by removing the head by disconnecting the links and removing the bolt from the bottom of the head block. The head should then pull off the main shaft. Disconnect the swash links from the servos and pull the swash and washout base off the shaft. There is a single bolt beneath the main gears the holds the shaft in, remove it and the shaft will pull out. Take the collar off the shaft and put it on your new one, make sure you get the orientation the same as the holes on each end of the shaft are spaced differently. Reverse the process to install the new shaft. (Joediamond on RCUniverse forum.) Note: Shorter hole/tip distance on top.
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Jesus bolt... I would like a shanked bolt also. I have been using Dubro bolts. They are stronger than the stock bolts, but fully threaded. The lower bolt rocks in the main shaft. This shears it off over time. The Dubro bolt has lasted much longer than the factory one did. I have been putting it in wet with epoxy. This stops the rocking for awhile. The epoxy wears out fairly quick. Looking for a better solution. (RotoRob)

#7- FEATHERING SHAFTS
Yet ANOTHER! :) Best one yet?
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=103095
(hosted locally here http://www.slyster.com/heli/bestyet.jpg )
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AWESOME feathering shaft photo showing parts and order.
Thanks Niconedz on Helifreaks... http://www.slyster.com/heli/bfsp.jpg
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ANOTHER... RHash posted a diagram of the order and orientation of the various shims and bearings when changing the feathering shaft. *Really* useful. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...591#post9240591
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EZ FAST feathering shaft replacement...
To fix the shaft FAST use a flybar... same threads to screw into the feathering shaft to keep all pieces in the proper order. (I can't remember who suggested this)
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Alternate feathering shafts (T-Rex 450 v1) "Align part AGNH1115 (HS1003) $5.99"
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=132
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/trex/trex_parts/AGNH1115.html
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For those of you flying the Blade 400 , the F-shaft is on backorder last time i looked, but you can use the E-sky Honey Bee King II F-shaft, it fits perfect , (it was mentioned earlier in this thread) you just have to use the nylon nuts on each end, i did mine today, and the blade is back in the air ,just make sure the nuts are flush with each ends, and don't tighten them too tight. Tx Hummingbird111
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Tip on thrust bearing assembly...The two cupped washers that sandwich the bearing cage appear to be the same but are not. The inner diameter is slightly different between the two. The one with the largest inside diameter goes on first (closet to the head block). Get a feathering shaft and slide the cupped washers on. Wiggle each washer and it will be very clear which ones have the larger ID. Also, make sure that the open face of the bearing cage faces the head block. It is designed to keep the grease in place..centrifugal force. (Redfire)
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If you still have a wobble i would double check your main shaft. A very small bend that you cant even tell will cause a lot of shake, at that speed. Also for future reference, don't spend 7 bucks for on spindle shaft. Align makes a set of 4 for like 6 bucks. Just a little long, but sam diameter. Some people use shims to make up the difference, I grind down with a Dremel, and use calipers. Only takes a min, about 15 thousands off each side and seem to be stronger. Also I can usually get about three bends out of each shaft before junk. If it just has one bend in spindle, I just put in a drill chuck and bend back, you can get them perfect if you take time at it, you got to figure that this isn't a high speed shaft, as long as you can get it strait enough so blade grip don't isolate when you spin shaft with allen wrench it, you shouldn't have tracking problems. Josh Mcormick
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I've been using T450's spindles as well. Works like a charm with a couple extra washers.
I don't grind my T450 feathering spindles either. Just buy a couple of extra head dampening shim packs. They fit the CP as well, so you may find them with the CP parts ($1.99/ea, 8 shims per pack). Each shim is about .005". You can just space your grips out with 5 more shims on each side to take up the end play. Just make sure your thrust bearings aren't binding or too happy. You'll be able to feel this by moving the grips by hand. Don't use the thick washers that come with the 450 spindles. They are about .050" each and will cause your thrust bearings to bind for sure when you tighten down the screws. 2 packs for $4 and you'll have extras in case you need to tighten up the head- Loopy1
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Strong CNC shafts for B400 http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_314_445&products_id=7265
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The feathering shaft is super easy to change if you use the flybar tip listed earlier in this thread. The flybar will thread directly into the feathering shaft, then you push the flybar through the head and pull a new one in from the other side. Don't remember who posted that but it is great. I can change shaft in a couple of minutes.
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About T-rex 450 v1 feathering shaft... On my Blade 400 with a T-rex Feathering Shaft, mine is setup as follows.. Grip--Step Washer--Align Spacer--Dampener--Head Block Depending on the condition of your Dampeners, you may need to add shims to get the Dampening stiff enough. If you need at add shims, add them between the Align Spacer and the Dampener.
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ALWAYS use loctite on the feathering shaft bolts!
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=89245
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#8- MAIN BLADES and balancing.

Can’t figure out a nagging blade tracking problem?

One thing to check is a cracked seesaw and other damaged parts. (Tx Windsors)

Re-shrink those stock main blades! Quick tip: Make sure you re-shrink the shrink wrap that is on the stock main blades. Bought a new stock set recently, and used a heat gun to make the wrap tight. Before it had been a little bit loose here and there. I could re-shrink it quite a bit; you could actually see it re-shrinking! Read somewhere, that you want to re-shrink once in a while, since the wood and wrap "works" over time, and the wrap might loose its tension.
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Free shims for Align blades- Tx Bladelernin on helifreaks
Gallon milk jugs are perfect thickness for grip shims.. .024
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Great carbons to try
http://www.readyheli.com/Thunder_Power_325mm_Carbon_Fiber_Main_Rotor_Blades_p/tph-325cf.htm
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Great blades to get (Radix)
http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/products_view.php?id=28
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Great tracking idea... using a laser pointer!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=893687
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Possible? "I got a package of #60 O-rings from H-D. They are OD 1/4" x ID 1/8".
Seem to be exactly the same size as stock."- Wolfpackin
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T-Rex 450SE rubber o-ring dampeners work great! - Redfire SVT / Hoverpunk
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BEST blades? (cheap version)
http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/products_view.php?id=28
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Some say .1 gram scale is NOT good enough... and some say blade balancers just cannot be trusted.. so here is a cheap balancer that can't go wrong... 6-32 x 1.5 screw threads in tight enough to hold the blades rigid.. yet won't damage them. You can then balance very precisely using two glasses.. but this doesn't help with CG balancing which some say isn't worthwhile anyway.
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Most of my Blade 400 vibrations where from the factory main rotor blades. They have a cutout for weights that is on only one side. This has made all of mine flex at the cutout. I went with Align Pro 325 wood blades, and Radix carbons for when I don't think I will crash. I use Align o-rings for dampeners in my Blade 400. They are much stiffer than the factory dampeners. LUBE O-RINGS!
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Switch to Align woodies after stocks run out.. then carbons.
Great flat bottom blades http://www.jcshobbies.com/products_trex.html
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Possible great cheap blades (Freestyle 325mm woodies)
http://www.freestyle-hobby.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=167

#9- MOTOR PINION
Gear mesh article
http://www.rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=29&page=1

IMHO, 95% of the people flying the B400 do not need to be using the 10T pinion.
The 9T pinion is a $3 part and takes 15mins MAX to change. I highly recommend anyone that is not doing "extreme" 3D to give it a shot. Quieter, relaxing, still can do 3D.
btw.. If you are using the stock motor, the only pinion that will work is the E-Flite EFLH1409 9T pinion gear due to the unusual motor shaft- tx grngrb

#10- BEC/ESC
Bullet sizes

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=1008932

WHY do I need BSC or a new ESC?
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=896831

Great upgrade esc Align 35G
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=874883
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=914127

BEST ESC... http://www.castlecreations.com/products/phoenix-35.html
CC ESC install http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=875610
CC ESC user guide http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/Phoenix_User_Guide.pdf

Good thread talking about BEC and how to install with some pix- Tx dwoodworker and Towpilot... http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=92244
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I read this somewhere... "I would expect 6V will destroy the factory servo's fairly quickly. I would use the 5v unless the servo's have been upgaded. And he also notes that the BEC (use 6v) http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm is awesome!"
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- Stock ESC poor.. gets hot.. especially with upgrades.. add a CC BEC... or a better ESC.
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cutting out the fake vents on the front of the canopy helps A LOT as well...its gets plenty of airflow over it that way in FF- (BladeCX2Runner)
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A BEC is cheap insurance and if your going to upgrade servos, like digital tail is a good idea. As for the FREE fan for cooling (main rotor) I have the ESC mounted on the forward outside of the frame below the batt location and the BEC on the other side, small vents cut in the canopy as others have done and things stay much cooler. TX Supra6
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In my experience BECs don't get that hot. It can be mounted on the side of the frame. Pretty easy to install, there are two ways to do it. Check out BEC 101 at Helifreak and it should answer your questions. My stock ESC gave out so i just replaced it with a esc that had an existing BEC. I would think a good place to mount the stock esc is underneath the frame where it can pick up a bit more air. That would apply more to forward flight i guess though. My 35a esc on my rex gets pretty hot after a hard run, I'm thinking of getting one myself. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=55538 (thanks JustinMoore12)
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To check firmware... For the AR6100e, they are currently up to v1.6, which will obviously have the Quick Connect feature since it was actually added mid v1.2.
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Good ESC to get ($85) if issues... Castle Creations Phoenix 35.. but remember the stock ESC is just fine IF you add the CC BEC 10A ($25)...
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You want to program it to 3 cell lipo, Low voltage cutoff,(i would suggest soft, it wont completely cut out if you run the battery low.) disable the brake, soft start to your desired time (longer the time the longer it will take to spool up) and you should be good to go.. no governor.
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After replacing all servos on my blade400, ESC started to run hot. I installed External BEC(Castle Creations 10A BEC $25Cdn). Installation was really easy, splice the BEC wires into the power leads on the ESC then run the wire from the BEC to the receivers BATT input then cut the red wire that comes from the ESC to the receiver. Next cut the yellow control wire from the BEC lead(AR6100E).

#11- Head/Tail Setup

Swash mix and amount of cyclic and paddles etc...

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=1015818

“I have a problem with 0 pitch at center but too low or high with full stick”.. (Answer thanks to Sokal)

Set you mix to 60% keeping the -/+ values the same. Check range if not equal then your swash is to hi or low depends on what’s more if you have more negative then swash is to hi (for non flipped grips) adjust swash plate position re-center every thing at mid and check again till the range is the same ie +8/-8 then raise the pitch in the swash mix till you get 10. For aile and elev put the blades off to the side and put full right cyclic look at the gap between the flybar control arms and the blade grips adj the aile swash mix setting till it bearly touches now go full left make sure the gap is the same if not then fly bar was not even if so input the same # in to elev swashmix

Which way should the tail spin?
Looking at the heli tail in... blade nearest you moves down!

When repairing the tail rotor, make sure that the belt is turned in the right direction before reinstalling the tail rotor shaft. To do this pull the belt straight so it is horizontal and has no twist, then rotate the belt 90 degress clockwise when vewing from behind. To check that the belt is correct spin the main rotor blades in the clockwise direction the tail rotor should spin counterclockwise. (NAVY Blade 401).. also you can see it better if the tail if off and you shine a bright light into the maintenance port.

Tail seems slow?
"Rudder travel adjust" is the #1 tool for piro rate. 100% a couple a second, 40 maybe 1/2 per secone etc. Sly had this problem.. see this thread especially post #61
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=88890

Setup

BEST SETUP explanation so far...

If the "0" setting is still 66, then you almost certainly haven't set up the gyro mechanically....

· Set "0" to 30 and "1" to 70. Zero the rudder trim and sub-trim. Flip the TX switch to "0".

· Plug the battery in and let the gyro sit for ~10 minutes or so. This allows the gyro to warm up, and hopefully eliminate any thermal drifting.

· Switch the TX gyro switch to "1" -- heading hold mode -- and adjust the rudder sub-trim until the servo creeps as little as possible. With the stock gyro you probably won't be able to eliminate creep entirely.

· Switch the TX gyro switch to "0" -- rate mode.

· Hover the heli, and note which way it wants to rotate. Land and adjust the length of the tail linkage to correct.

· Repeat the last step until you can hover the heli with little or no rudder input.

· Reduce the "0" (rate) gyro setting from 30 toward 0 until you start to get "wag", then back off a bit.

· Flip the TX switch to "1" -- heading hold mode -- and increase the "1" setting from 70 toward 100 until you get "wag" and back it off a bit.

You now have a correctly adjusted gyro. (My TX settings are around 25 and 75, but your setup may differ.) Thanks to grnbrg on RCGroups!

Another GREAT setup explanation
Hello Everyone, Please do not feel like you have to read this post, but if you are having any trouble with your GY401 and 3400G combo drifting, I have finally figured mine out. I was extremely frustrated as my heli was drfiting to the left slightly and I was having to use 1 click of trim to keep it somewhat centered. Not no more, now my heli is 100% locked with no trim or subtrim at all. This is what I did.

1) Bought new JR standard servo arms (JSP98080), and fastened the ball link to the closest hole to the screw center on the outside. These servo horn's have no weird arc to them, and are straight up and down. (makes finding 90 easier)

2) Make sure all rudder trims and subtrims are centered.

3) Place horn on servo and power up heli in HH mode. Then flick into std. rate mode (I had mine at 30%). Then adjust linkage mechanically so slider is in middle of tail shaft (via threaded rod)

4) Adjust limits on GY401. Mine fell at approx. 120. I know this is on the higher side, but it works.

5) Adjust the delay to approx. 10-15 on the GY401. I know it says to put at zero but it works.

6) Test limits to ensure no binding.

7) Switch between rate & HH mode 3 times fast to program center on GY401.

8) Turn off heli.

9) BIND, then turn off heli again.

10) Turn on heli and go test it out.

With this setup the limit is very high, but when you do this, it allows you to set the gain on the gyro much higher, this resulting in a much better hold. I have my gain at about 79% with no wagging and a very locked tail. Also I found by adding a little delay, it got rid of the hard stop the tail does when changing directions, thus allowing you to increase the gain even more. Thanks to Jlsider on Healifreaks

How do make the tail HOLD! (Thanks to Wolfpackin)

To get rid of wag reduce the gyro gain.

To stop drift:

Move the linkage ball to the middle hole on the servo arm.
Set the heli up in Rate mode (approx. 25% gain) so there is as little drift as possible. Make all adjustments mechanically by adjusting the linkage length of the tail pushrod. While in rate mode also make sure the servo arm is centered and square with the pushrod.
Then switch to HH and hover. Use rudder subtrim to "trim out" any drift while flying. Don't worry about what the servo/slider/gyro does while on the bench.
Go back to Rate mode and check your hold, if needed make further mechanical adjustments. Go back to HH and tweak subtrim settings again.

Using this method I usually need 1-2 clicks of regular trim to start every flight. This varies depending on temperature, battery and mood of the gyro. Once I set the regular trim I don't touch it for the entire flight. I get a solid hold with no drift.

Also, make sure you let the heli acclimate to the ambient temp you are flying in.
And, I found that turning the physical gyro gain pot to full CW helped, others have found full CCW to be better. Experiment to see what works for you.
Make sure the pushrod has a straight shot between the servo arm to the tail.

Setting things up the way I described takes a lot of back and forth between HH and Rate but if you stay with it and try different combos you can get this gyro servo combo to work pretty darn good. The main rule is to use mechanical adjustments in Rate mode and subtrim adjustments in HH mode for no drift.

#12- GYRO and SERVOS

HS65 specs

http://www.hitecrcd.com/product_file/file/30/hs65.pdf

Good HS65 servo upgrade info

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=104220

Good guide for B401 setup

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=57491

Some tail gyro suggestions
(From this thread http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=97863)

Good guide to getting the GY401 drift free

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=103703

Logictech 2100T gyro self-calibration (hidden function), eliminates HH drift

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=103920

From Sly's experience... The HS65MG works great for learning, FF, FFF, and loops but isn't up to the challenge of hard maneuvers and starting 3D. It is a slower analog servo that needs so delay set if you use the 401.

"The 9257 is excellent.... I've only used it with the 401...... and another.... You want to get the JR DS3500G for the tail, perfect servo, one of the best matches to the 2100T. If not the JR DS3400G, Hitec HSG5083MG are both very good choices.

"ALSO awesome alternative... Hitec Standard Heli Gyro Pack (HS-5000 Gyro/HSG-5083 Tail Servo/3x HS-65HB Servos) [HRC40105]
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HRC40105"

"Inexpensive options: JR DS290G and Futaba S3154"

"From my experience both the 9257 and 3400G are great servo's. Won't go wrong with either of those. 9257 seems faster, but I like the way the 3400 holds."

"Don't forget the old school 401/9650 @ 6V....still kickin"

"The inexpensive combo stock gyro and Spektrum DSP75 true-digital (275Hz) servo works good (not the best of course). The great thing about the DSP75 is that you can program it with the separate Digital Servo Programmer:
- Mode (i.e., fixed wing, cyclic, or tail)
- Center (i.e., 90 deg) of servo horn
- Travel limit left and right (indepedently) to avoid binding of tail slider
Makes a good complement to the lacking servo features of the stock gyro."

"jr 3400G on a 401. work great. Like it even more with it tail boom mounted."

"I was running the Futaba S3114 mounted on the tail when I still had my Blade, worked great with the 401 and only 14 bucks to boot"

** good setup! ** From Buildem336... "If you want the best tail servo that works perfect with a 401 gyro get the Ino-lab tail servo. Its faster lighter and smaller than the Futaba 9257 I run it in my Blade 400 and my brother runs it in his T-rex 500 the tail is perfect on both birds. "... INO-LAB 0.06sec/60 CORLESS DIGITAL TAIL SERVO - T-REX 500..
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=359_596_597&products_id=8074

HS65 rebuild thread
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=46691

GY401 guide
http://www.futaba-rc.com/team/team-tip-002.html

Good cheap servo alternatives
I suggest you replace your cyclic servos before they fail in flight and cause a crash. I learned this the hard way, as have many people in this forum. Many pilots are using the Hitec HS-65 MGs with great results, but they are pricey ($35 each). I now run HXT900s from Hobby City. They are only $3.65 yet are fast, strong, and reliable. The replacement gear sets are a buck. They will not center as precisely as the MGs but for that price I am not complaining. (HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo)- Fishboy77
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=662
--------------------------
Tape? The best foam tape I've used is the black "servo tape" Trinity sells it or wide Trinity... The one with the plastic center tube thing is what i always look for, and the blue strip at the start. Some are like rubber but ive never had good luck with it or the white type. They always fall off after a while.installing a GY401? Check out - BowerR64
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZN9&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKC60&P=7
--------------------------
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=57491
--------------------------
401 drift issues?
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=96781
--------------------------
Thread on gyro/piro limits and adjustments
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881001
--------------------------
Guess I was flying my blade400 on borrowed time, the gyro switch should not be set to digital for the eflite DS75H stock servos !!!! It will cause them to fail in just a few minutes. The eflite DSP75 servos are OK to run with the G110 gyro switch set to digital setting but do not come with the blade 400.
--------------------------
The stock G110 gyro is a rate AND heading hold (HH) gyro. The way you set this in the radio is somewhat non intuitive. In the radio, gain values from 0% to 50% correspond to 100% rate gyro down to 0%. Radio gain values from 50% to 100% correspond to 0% up to 100% HH. So . . if you want maximum rate gain, you would set the radio to 0%. Maximum HH gain, set radio to 100%. Now, 50% radio is 0% rate, 0% HH, so essentially the gyro would have no control over the tail. DO NOT FLY WITH RADIO GAIN AT 50%! Unless you like the challenge, that is... Going further, if you set the radio to 75%, this is actually 50% HH gyro gain (since 75% is between 50% and 100%). Likewise, 25% radio = 50% rate gain. Gotta do a little math to figure out gyro gain values for other radio %. To me, they should have made the radio display go from -100% to +100% instead of 0% to 100%.
-------------------------------
Logictech 2100T Gyro + 3100G Servo Combo Set AWESOME + cheaper
-------------------------------
ALSO awesome alternative... Hitec Standard Heli Gyro Pack (HS-5000 Gyro/HSG-5083 Tail Servo/3x HS-65HB Servos) [HRC40105] Just the 3 servos around $70
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HRC40105
-------------------------------
You gotta turn it all the way to 0%. Huge difference. I have mine at 0% on the gyro and 78% on the TX and it holds great (I have it in the 2nd hole from the center on the servo horn. A lot of guys here use the 3rd/middle hole. Mine had binding with the 3rd hole but the 2nd hole was the sweet spot for me).
--------------------------------
Basically, it is controlled by the TX gyro gain settings.
00% = RATE mode gain of 100%
10% = RATE mode gain of 80%
20% = RATE mode gain of 60%
30% = RATE mode gain of 40%
40% = RATE mode gain of 20%
49% = RATE mode gain of 2%
50% = HH mode gain of 0%
60% = HH mode gain of 20%
70% = HH mode gain of 40%
80% = HH mode gain of 60%
90% = HH mode gain of 80%
100% = HH mode gain of 100%
----------------------------------
Just make sure that the tail is set up correctly in rate mode (page 24 & 25 in the manual tells how to set the settings in the TX). Mine had a bit of a wag until I corrected it via the tail servo linkage.
----------------------------------
I picked up my B400 on Saturday. Out of the box it had some tail wag, so I read the instruction manual and low and behold this gyro behaves like the esky HH gyro. The factory settings are both set to be in HH mode. I think that part of the problem is the tail needs to be set up in rate mode. After I figured this out per pages 24 and 24 if the instruction manual, I was able to use the gyro switch to switch back and forth from rate mode to HH mode by changing the gyro settings in the TX. I set the "0" setting to around 65%, if I remember correctly, and the "1" setting to 25%. The reason is to be in rate mode the gyro sees 0 as 100% rate mode and 50 as 0%. Anything over 50 is HH mode. In other words I have the "0" on the gyro switch in the gyro setting in the TX set at 65% to be in HH mode and the "1" on the gyro switch in the gyro setting in the TX set at 25% to be in rate mode. So, when I switch the gyro switch back and forth I can see that the tail servo moves correctly between rate and HH modes. When in HH mode the tail behaved like it should, but when I switched to rate mode the tail drifted to the right (counter clockwise). That told me that the tail needed a little more pitch via the servo to slider link because I can't move the servo like I can on my kingV2. I didn't have time to do this yesterday, so I still need to make the proper adjusts to see if I am right.
-----------------------------
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=57491 gyro gain in tx has to be more than 50
then plug in the batt and the 401 LED should be a solid red for hh mode i use 70% (SOKAL)
-----------------------------
INSTALLING NEW SERVOS... Reverse 65's in the radio! The HS-65's need to have their rotation set for the position you have them installed hence the "servo direction" this is set in the transmitter. I do not have mine handy right now but it's in either the set-up or adjust menu. Also the same with the Swash Mix, being that you will have changed the servo direction of rotation from stock settings the movement of the Swash needs to be adjusted also, again this is done in the transmitter menus. The Sub Trims have to do with the installation of the servos and done prior to the two steps above, sorry, the idea is you get the control arms as close to the 90 degree angle, to the servo case, then use the sub-trims to get them right at 90. As you may have been discovering, if you are new to all this and learning as we all are you may want to spend an evening doing it all over. First take a look the Finless Bob videos on the head assembly and set up, they are specific for a Trex but all the theory and procedures apply to the 400, basically the same or close, the rex has an additional adjustment for the flybar rotor top but the IDEAS are correct. Not only will you get it set up correct but as you are flying you will be more able to make the small adjustments with the knowledge you have gained. You'll need a pitch gauge, ball link pliers, Allen wrench a bit of grease or lubricant, Phillips screwdriver, patience and a few of the beverage of your choice.
----------------------------------
O.K. I figured out what was wrong with my elevator travel. Long story short I moved the two pushrods balls in one hole closer on the servo horn. This will not look right when compared to stock which is parallel. The pushrods now look like an isosceles trapezoid with the narrow side on the servo horn. Evidently the HS65Mgs change the geometry somewhat.
------------------------------------
Yes second hole is used, you always want to try and match that up as close to stock as possible. It may be a good idea to put the ball links on the inside of the elevator servos horn. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877952
-------------------------------
Servo center/limit to avoid binding:
The big gear (last on top) has notches that limit the servo travel. I was having binding after replacing a few gear sets the other day and noticed that. Maybe you could mention it, as if you don't setup the last gear correctly, the servo will not give you full travel, will bind and may fail.
1) open front cover
2) replace gear set if necessary,
3) place front cover temporarily
4) turn on receiver, center all sticks in throttle hold
5) turn off receiver, remove front cover again
6) remove first gear, and place it back making sure the notch inside the front cover is centered between the two limiters on the gear.
7) replace cover, enjoy. (From Dexter)

#13- Radio settings/curves (use curves at your own risk!)

Switch Spektrum radio to mode 1 or mode 2

http://www.max3design.com/soporte/RC/DX6i/DX6i_mode_change.htm

Trim swtich fix

There is a design issue on the DX6i. The digital trims have failed on a number of transmitters. I do not know how common the problem is, it depends on how often you use the trims and how much force you use. Horizon uk will send out new trims under warranty. The digital trims sit on a small pcb and contain a small black plastic 'T' shaped rocker which rests on two pcb mounted switches.As you push the trim left or right the corresponding switch is depressed and you hear a click. The problem is that the black plastic rocker is in some cases not strong enough and the rocker can fully or partially break at a right angle join which seems to be the weakest place. This can be fixed at the flying field by swopping with a trim that you do not use while flying and of course you can always use subtrim. Some people have strengthened the trims with epoxy. The trims are easy to swop if you have a small screwdriver with you. Others have found that fitting a small fibre washer under the pcbs reduces the force on the rocker and has so far prevented the problem. So long as you don't panic if this happens to you while flying it is a minor issue. If you know it might happen then it won't. I swopped my tail/rudder trim with the throttle and strengthened it with 'hard plastic' glue... thanks Chris John

Online manual for Spektrum DX6i
http://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/SPM6600_DX6i_Manual-LoRes.pdf

Fixing the roller
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=900897#post900897

Stock settings
Norm
T 00-25-50-75-100
P 35-43-50-75-100
Idle up
T 100-90-85-90-100
P 000-25-50-75-100
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newbies and park fliers try these! (Always keep the ...50-75-100 for pitch for future idle up)

Tail Boom's newbie hover settings

*** Beginner settings ***

! For hovering and basic flight only !

Cyclic & Collective

===================

JR DS285MG servos

Stock blades and paddles

Stock motor w/ stock pinion, gears and pulleys

Aileron and elevator at 90% D/R and 5%-10% expo.

Pitch normal(1) L-40%, 2-45%, 3-50%, 4-65%, H-80% (-2/-1/0/3/6).

Pitch normal(2) L-40%, 2-45%, 3-50%, 4-67.5%, H-85% (-2/-1/0/3.5/7).

Pitch normal(3) L-40%, 2-45%, 3-50%, 4-69%, H-87.5% (-2/-1/0/3.75/7.5).

-> Pitch normal(4) L-35%, 2-42.5%, 3-50%, 4-70%, H-90% (-3/-1.5/0/4/8).

Throttle normal(1) L-0%, 2-33.5%, 3-50%, 4-65%, 5-80%.

Throttle normal(2) L-0%, 2-33.5%, 3-50%, 4-67.5%, 5-85%.

Throttle normal(3) L-0%, 2-33.5%, 3-50%, 4-69%, 5-87.5%.

-> Throttle normal(4) L-0%, 2-25%, 3-50%, 4-70%, H-90%.

Pitch throttle hold L-35%, 2-42.5%, 3-50%, 4-75%, 5-100% (-3/-1.5/0/5/10).

Throttle throttle hold at 0%.

Tail

====

Logictech LTG-2100T gyro in Logictech servo mode

Logictech LTS-3100G servo

Ball end on 10 mm

Stock blades

Stock motor w/ stock pinion, gears and pulleys

Rudder ATV at 125% left/right.

Rudder D/R at 70%-90% and 10%-15% expo.

Tx gyro gain at 76.5% (77.5% max, approx. 65% min).

Gyro rotate rate at LED no. 1.

ESC

===

Align RCE-BL35G 35A Brushless ESC (Governor Mode) w/ built-in 5V BEC

1-Brake: 1 Brake disabled

2-Electronic Timing: 2 Mid-timing

3-Battery Protection: 1 High voltage protection

4-Aircraft: 2 Helicopter 1 (soft start)

5-Throttle Response Speed: 3 Quick speed

----------------------------

Sly's slow (easiest on the nerves)
T 00-20-30-40-50
P 40-45-50-75-100

Sly's med (good slow park flying)
T 00-40-50-60-70
P 40-45-50-75-100

Sly's fast (Good for fast park flying)
T 00-60-70-80-90
P 40-45-50-75-100

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Finding your own curve. (Mike SVOR)
1. Make sure at MID STICK on your transmitter, you have zero pitch and your servo arms are flat across and @ 90 degrees ( or as close to it as possible) (use sub trim if needed) (do this with your standard trims in the middle).
2. Start out on Normal throttle curve. Set it to 0, 25, 50, 50, 50.
3. when you spool up (to zero pitch/mid-stick), you'll be at 50% throttle. When you start applying pitch, you will hear the rpm go down/bog. Tune out the bog till the rpm doesn't go down OR up when moving to full pitch.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEWBIE SETTINGS 1... Just came in from a flight with my new throttle curve (0,50,80,90,100)...wow. If I would have known that the higher head speed would make it THAT much more stable I would have done it right from the start! Not only is it MUCH faster reacting, its amazingly stable! I can get about 5 second hands off hovers! I knocked my tail gain down to about 77 but will try 77.5 next flight as it still doesn't wag...I found 78 to wag a little. (Gunny suggests 0-45-75-85-100.. might keep the esc cooler and much better stability)
--------------------
NEWBIE SETTINGS 2... You can greatly reduce the sharpness of the controls by adding 35% positive expo to the aileron and 30% of expo to the elevator... (i use 1% positive on the rudder....for calm condition flying i have my gyro set at 68% and for slightly windy conditions i like to use around 60-61% these setting have greatly reduced the twitch and allowed me to get my thumbs moving a bit more which I'm used to moving a lot when flying the FP's
------------------
NEWBIE SETTINGS 3... I have my Heli set up per videos on Heli Freak. With a modified Curve of:
Pitch Curve: 41/46/50/75/100
Throttle Curve: 0/15/30/45/60
Very stable and smooth.
-------------------
NEWBIE SETTINGS 4... Set expo at 20% elevator and aileron, throttle curve at 0-20-40-60-80 (someone earlier said they were having good luck with this as a newbie curve) and flight timer at 6:00. Flew through three packs out in the garage today. I can hold a hover at least four minutes and the heli is VERY stable. I have never had such good flights with my CP. Don't know whether it's the expo or the fact that the 400 is a way better bird.
--------------------
NEWBIE SETTINGS 5... a gentle idle up for learning:
Pitch curve: 45-47-50-65-100
Throttle: 100-85-80-85-100
Please don't not attempt any rolls, loops or inverted flights with these settings. You might be able to loop with them but you wont have any neg to get out of trouble
--------------------
He is correct with the expo, positive on the DX6i will give you a softer feel around center stick. Personally if you want less pitch i prefer to do it manually, however you can also do it in the tx. Use a pitch gauge and I would suggest something like 9 degrees positive and maybe 2 degrees negative for the first few flights. That's all your gonna need for hovering and FF. I also prefer a linear throttle curve in normal mode, 0-25-50-75-100 (same as factory) If you are still a bit squeamish on idle up and don't want to have to worry about flipping the switch you can change the throttle curve to match normal mode to avoid confusion until you are ready to use it. I suspect that the throttle curve that you posted was for a T-Rex? I found with my blade that by reducing the headspeed that much (60% at full throttle/coll.) It looses a lot of the stability. Also if you are having heat issues you can go one tooth smaller on the motor pinion, a few pages back sparx had posted his eagletree data about his setup. Slows top headspeed a bit but he does a lot of FFF and loops and doesn't have any problems. Check your ESC heat after your first flight
---------------
SETTING UP RATE/HH GYRO- I'm running the DSP75 with the stock gyro and ball linkage in the third hole. During normal hovering the tail was solid with no wag or drift and the gain at 76%. Once I started doing piro's I noticed it would bounce a few times after a fast stop. I lowered the gain to 72.5% and the tail was still good and the bounce after a piro went away. The end.
---------------
SETUP... So, here's what I do. From experience I know that regardless of how my tail is mechanically I always need about 15-25 clicks of right subtrim to stop creep in HH mode.
So I start with 20 clicks built into my setup in rate, I also account for that trim in regard to my servo arm being at 90 degrees. In other words I put my servo arm on, at 90, with that amount of subtrim already in the TX. Then I make pushrod adjustments until the tail holds as good as possible in rate mode (regular trim centered). Then I switch to HH and make any subtrim adjustments, to my original number, to get a good hold. Then I go back and forth between the modes to ensure I have it as close as possible in both. As you get closer to a perfect mechanical setup the gain can usually be increased in HH mode.
-----------------------------------
I added +30 of Expo on Cyclic... all the difference in the world!
-----------------------------------
Mon_T comments on idle up and newbie settings...
If using a 10th pinion I would recommend an idle-up1 throttle curve of 80-75-70-75-80 or
and a normal throttle curve of 0-45-70-75-80 so there is no jump when you switch.
Leave your normal and idle-up pitch curves the same to start off with. At something like 45-47.5-50-75-100

I would recommend newbies to start flying in idle-up and always keep one finger on the throttle hold for when you get into trouble. A lot of newbies are afraid of idle-up and I can understand why, it is intimidating at first. You will find though with a close to constant head speed, it is a LOT more stable and easier to control.

I say this for two reasons most newbies learn dump the throttle to get out of trouble and you'll come to regret it later on when you start flying in idle-up and have a linear pitch curve. If you did that in idle-up all you'll succeed in doing is slamming it into the ground faster. Try it, if you don't like it, you can always go back.
-------------------------------------

JR G770 Gyro Setup Videos + some new 101's (good for all radios too)
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=95258

#14- Receiver
"Oops!" I fogot where to plug things in on rx !!!
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=734191&postcount=7
------------------------------------
AR6100e v1.6 update... they are version 1.2. Upgrade is version 1.6. Easiest way to check is look on the edge of receiver to see if 1.2 or 1.6 is there. Second way is, while radio and rx is powered (definitely want to hit throttle hold), move a stick in full one direction, quickly disconnect battery, move stick in full opposite direction, and reconnect. If you get instant control change and flashing light on RX, you have latest. If no flashing light and it take several seconds to get the change, you have old version. (Can possibly do with out stick deflections and just check for flashing rx light.)
------------------------------------
Connections? AUX=PIT, GEAR= GYRO SIG yellow wire, RUDD=GYRO

#15- Belt
shine a BRIGHT flashlight into the inspection port and look into the end of the tube and you can see if the belt is twisted or not. (Sly)
-----------------------------
Inspection and replacement

You have to take the TR shaft block in the frame out -- the 4 screws (2 on each side of the frame) just below & to the rear of the main gear holds this block in place. You will have to take the rcvr out as well (and the main gear too for when you replace the belt). You can then remove the TR shaft block down & out of the frame. I put Velcro on my rcvr so I can remove it easier later on (also to try & isolate it better from the frame).

Replacing it is a little trickier. Here are some tips I remember from when I replaced mine (unfortunately I didn't write it down -- going from memory here):

1. the belt is not stiff enough to push through the boom, so I used a long stiff wire with a hook at the end to pull/fish the belt through from the other side.

2. The belt needs a 1/2-twist in the boom, since the TR gear is horizontal. I can't remember which way you twist it -- what I did was move the belt by hand the same way the TR gear rotates to make sure the rotor moves correctly. Note that the TR gear moves opposite direction from the main gear.

3. When replacing the TR block, get as much slack in the belt out the boom end as you can, push the boom in the frame as far as it goes -- hopefully this gives you enough slack so when you slide the shaft block back up, the belt pulley just goes through the belt. I seem to remember using an Allen wrench to help me stretch the belt a little in the frame.

I don't know if it's easier to put the belt around the TR gear in the frame first, or do the TR end first. I did the TR first, but I often tend to do things bass-ackwards.
-------------------------------------
LUBE belt with Liquid Wrench (or equivalent) Silicone Spray from hardware/auto parts store! Most use this. Conditions and lubes the belt.. and dries so it will not attract dirt and dust etc. Helps with static.... some say FOOD SAFE silicone spray is best for not damaging the belt. (although I don't know where to get food safe silicone)

#16- FACTORY SETTINGS
Factory throttle curves are:
Norm: L = 0%, 2 = 25.0%, 3 = 50.0%, 4 = 75.0%, H = 100%
Stunt: L = 100%, 2 = 92.5%, 3 = 85.0%, 4 = 92.5%, H = 100%
Hold: 0.0%
Factory pitch curves are:
Norm: L = 35.0%, 2 = 42.5%, 3 = 50.0% (0 pitch) 4 = 75.0%, H = 100.0%
Stunt: L = 0.0%, 2 = 25.0%, 3 = 50.0%, 4 = 75.0%, H = 100.0%
Hold: same values as Norm pitch
----------------------------------------
Some of the setup list values are different from what is shown on Page 79 of the Spektrum manual. I will only list the items that are different from the manuals values:
Model Name: BLADE400
Reverse: AILE-R, RUDD-R (all others N)
swash type: CCPM 120*
Thro Cut: Position - INH
Timer: Down timer - 04:30
Now for the adjust list (Page 105).
D/R&EXPO: the "0" switch positions for AILE and ELEV are at 90% D/R. All EXPO's are at INH. Travel Adj: RUDD: <90% and >90% (note you have to move the rudder stick left & right to set the separate values).
Gyro: Rate 0: 66.5% Rate 1: 64.0%
Throttle and pitch curves as listed above
Swash Mix: AILE: -75%, ELEV: -75%, PITCH: +85%
Mix 1: INH
Mix 2: INH

#17- BLING

Head speed and super cyclic response tips
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=99413

FG canopy
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=421_626&products_id=8444

Xheli stuff
http://www.xheli.com/bl400codealh.html

WHY go metal?
(Why go Copter/X cnc part)- "...to answer your question you can get more collective and cyclic pitch, run higher headspeed, more blade options, 4mm spindle vs 2mm stock spindle." (SkunkyMagoo)

METAL HEAD!
Copter/X CNC parts... $100 for the head and tail.
Easy as pie to install. Just slide it on. (Skunkymagoo)
Some links.
http://heli-bros.mybisi.com/product/24146/Main-rotor-set-V2_73718.html
http://heli-bros.mybisi.com/product/24146/Tail-rotor-set_73730.html
and...
http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=173_175&products_id=5445
http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=173_175&products_id=4776
Skunky also says... (about how to install) Remove the copterx swash and put the copterx balls on the inside of the stock swash. Install the stock swash on the head. Slide it on and slide in the jesus bolt. Make sure you go over everything with loctite.
------------------------------------
Good cheap bling CNC here!
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/StoreFront
------------------------------------
Canopy painting: The spray paints from Tamiya and Pactra work well. Wipe down the canopy with alcohol or something to remove any mold release agents or oils from handling. Everything I've tried flakes a little (after a crash) when the gel coat (fiberglass canopies) is fractured. On the cheap plastic ones, the paints stick pretty well. You can try an adhesion promoter like this from Napa. (Paint Adhesion Promoter. Item#: MS 6246).
------------------------------------
RE: CNC head stuff.... I would use the Copter X head, that's what I'm putting on my T-Rex. http://heli-bros.mybisi.com/category/Parts_24146_Page1.html 60 bucks vs easily twice that for the align v2 or eflite parts. I know someone has put a trex head on a blade 400 im not sure where i saw it though. CNC tail is like 30 bucks. IMO- JustinMoore!

The parts are Align TRex V2 compatible so if you can't get CopterX parts easily you can get the Trex stuff and it will fit just fine (more than likely you'll only need spindles and tail shafts) The jury is still out on the strength of the front part of the tail case, and seems to be the one weakpoint in the setup. You can get them from either heli-bros.com or ehirobo.com. Mon_T
-------------------------------------

Copterx Head and Tail installation and setup with PICS.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=103783

#18- General maintenance routine
One suggestion from xpower180 on HeliFreaks
Head off
Main Shaft out (checked for straightness / Cleaned / Re-Greased)
Main Gear out and checked (Bearings cleaned and Re-Greased)
Boom off
Belt checked over
Tail checked over when removed (Cleaned / Re-Greased)
Swash checked for levels at low-mid-high
Feathering Shaft / Blade Grips checked (Spindle / bearings cleaned and Re-Greased)
All screws / bolts checked for tightness

#19- RUNRYDER blog and tips
My son and I have found some very simple and easy to do mods that have enhanced the flight performance of our B400, and we thought we would share them. While all of these mods are not intended for the new heli pilot, the more experienced pilots will find them useful. I did all these mods one at a time so we would know what worked and to what extent. All mods were done after we had plenty of time on the stock machine as well.

The first thing we did was make sure that everything from the servo arms, swash plate, washout arms, flybar cage and mixing levers were all level at half stick and zero pitch on the blades. Dot not use any sub trim on the servos and get the servo arms as close as you can by trying different splines, and use linkage to level everything else.

Next, put the flybar directly over the boom and make sure your head block / grips are 90 degrees to the boom. If it is not, grab the mixing base in one hand and the head block in the other, and give it a gentle twist to correct. If it is out, it won't be much, and this will correct any swash timing issue it might have. The pins in the head block will tolerate a small amount of twisting easily.

To optimize the tail servo / gyro we moved the link ball down one hole (third hole up from servo arm mount screw) and we were able to turn the gyro up from 70% to 78%. The tail is now holding very well, even in fast backwards flight and backwards rolls.

Next, I stiffened the head dampening. I ended up with a total of .025 thousandths a side. I basically added shims until the thrust bearings got notchy and then removed one. This stiffened the head up quite a bit and gave it a more locked in feel.

Next, I installed a set of T-rex 450 5 gram paddles. They did help with cyclic authority but it was a rather subtle change. Nothing drastic.

Next, I installed a set of Radix 325 blades. The blade change made a big difference. The Radix blades were about 10 grams liter than the stock wood blades and 10mm shorter. To use the Radix blades you must use the included grip shims. I also added an extra .025 shim per side that are not included but had left over from another set. The total shim thickness is .065 on both sides of a single blade. The Radix blades are more expensive then the stock wood blades, so I would not recommend them for the new heli pilot. The stock wood blades are high quality and do work very well.

I don't particularly care for the canopy mount rod and how it slides back and forth while trying to install the canopy. I initially installed heat shrink tube on each side to keep it from sliding, but have since had to split the frames and cut it off to slide the rod out. When I put it back together I used some thin wheel collars on each side and gently snugged them down. If you use wheel collars make absolutely sure that the servo arms and fore aft bell crack will clear them.

Next, I gave the belt a light coat of silicone spray to loosen the tail belt and allow it to run smoother and free it up. The silicone dries tack free and will not attract dirt.

Next, I installed a Thunder Power 2200V2 pack. The thunder power pack bumped the head speed up to 2900 which made the heli more nimble. I would not recommend the TP pack to new heli pilots strictly because of cost and the possibility of crash damage. The E-flite packs work very well, are cheaper, and work with the supplied charger.

Next, I flipped the grips and mixers. Flipping the grips puts the mixer on the leading edge and allows the blades to react quicker and more precise. Flipping the mixer gave us more direct input and more pitch / cyclic range. While flipping the mixer does make the heli more responsive, it does make it less stable. By doing this mod we have achieved 12+12, high unobstructed cyclic throws and still have some reserve throws. I was also able to move the points in the swash mix program to the 65% range. This allows the heli to respond to cyclic / collective pitch changes quicker for a given input. I definitely do not recommend this mod for the new heli pilot, but if you are an advanced pilot and want to play around, give it a try. I think you will find it really wakes the little heli up.

After doing all these very simple mods, our B400 is now crisper responding and has a more locked in feel. It will tumble, roll, chaos, piro flip all on axis and is more precise.

Horizon did not design the 400 to be this aerobatic right out of the box. They were more focused on giving the entry level to advanced pilots a RTF heli that was stable and flew well out of the box along with a heli that would be the next step from the CP and CX. I personally think they achieved their goal, but with just a little TLC, you can have even the next step beyond their design.

As with all mods, consider each one carefully. Some will benefit all pilots while others will only benefit the very advanced fliers.

Update:

Over the past couple of days we have been experimenting with tail servos. The servos we have tried are, stock of course, Hitec HS50, E-flite S60 and the JR 3400G. All of these servos have performed very well for us as tail servos in our T-rex / E-flite G90 combo (how I get the G90 to work so well is another story, and our focus is on the 110. Those that have seen it, can't believe it). Our G90 / HS50 combo has proven very reliable and great holding power in the past but has not proven the same with the G110. The 110 does not like the HS50 at all, and in fact, was all over the place during aerobatics. My son had to fly the tail to keep it from blowing out. Out of all the servos we tested, the stock has proven very reliable, if set-up properly, and works well with the 110. For hard core 3D, the 3400G has proven bullet proof, works well with the 110 and holds extremely well. I personally hate to run a servo that size / weight on a small heli so we are putting the stock servo back in. For us, the 3rd hole on the stock servo seemed to be the sweet spot and that is what we are going back to. If my son feels that the 3400G is worth the extra weight I will put it back in. The ultimate combo would be the 770 / 3400G but, again, I try to keep the weight down on small helis. For the money, I would recommend staying with the stock servo and if you want to upgrade, go with the 3400G. The 3400G fits the stock frame without mods. Money well spent either way.

We have also been trying different cyclic servos. Servos tested, stock, HS65, JR DS285. The best bang for the buck is definitely the stock servo. They are light, fast, have the same torque as the 285 and have a tight gear train. They are not as durable as a HS65 or a 285 but even with a few extra gear sets on hand it's a great servo for the money. My son was doing some pretty wild crack flips and rolls with the 400 today and he was very pleased with the stock servos over the others. Enough to say, we'll keep these in and carry spare gear sets.

It's very easy to add several ounces of extra weight by using different servos, gyros and tail servos. The result is a small heli that flies heavy and now is down on power. I hope this thread will allow the new heli pilots enough information to make educated decisions and not waste money. I'd rather see them use the saved money for extra batteries and be successful in flying helicopters.

We have ditched the Align paddles and gone back to stock permanently. They are one gram heavier put are crisper responding.

We are also experimenting with tail blades at this time to optimize the G110 / stock servo set-up. I think the rite set of blades will compliment the 110 / stock servo set-up.

PM questions are welcome and I will answer them as fast as I can. Jim...

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I found this little Q&A session very informative.. thanks to GunnyGlow on RC Groups.

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